TANE JOURNEY
Setting washing aside
for a moment.
What would not fit in the posts ──
where it came from, the rules, and what is not written
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I have washed too much and ended up with dry skin.
Back then I believed I had to use something to wash with. Almost as if I had been brainwashed.
In the posts, I talked about what I changed from there.
This booklet holds the part that did not fit into those posts. One image has room for only twelve lines. Most of what I looked into had to be cut.
So I will not repeat what the posts already said. Only where the story would not connect do I put in a short bridge.
I grew up in Japan, and I live in the United States now. I go to Korea often, too. Seeing similar products in three countries, I was quite confused at first. What that confusion really was, I write about here as well.
So that the next time you stand in front of the shelf, the one you always pick up looks a little different.
- 01How we came to wash every day
- 02The outer layer of skin is not the same thickness everywhere
- 03Tools and materials
- 04The oldest record of soap
- 05Names and rules
- 06What the ingredient list does not say
- Quick viewSeven ways of looking / the ingredient list / three countries
- SourcesWhat this issue is made from
01
How we came to wash every day
In the posts, I wrote that bathrooms spread into ordinary homes from the 1960s on.
That is a story about the container.
A bath coming into the house, and washing the whole body there every day, are not the same thing. Where did the habit come from?
When I looked, there were records.
An industry formed an association
In the United States, an association of companies making soap and glycerin was formed in 1926. It still exists today, and it publishes this history itself.
The following year, 1927, that association set up an organization: the Cleanliness Institute. Its purpose was to teach the value of cleanliness in schools.
It made booklets, spoke on the radio, placed advertisements in magazines, sent material to newspapers, and went into school lessons as well. Its main audience was children.
A booklet called “A Book About Baths” spends 24 pages on the manners of bathing. The morning bath. The bath after coming home from work. Bathing children. How the temperature of the water changes things.
A record of what it did over the five years from 1927 to 1932 still remains in an academic journal.
Why an industry, and not one company
When soap makers compete with each other in advertising, it is hard to pull ahead. They are all soap.
What worked better was for the industry to come together and spread the idea that cleanliness matters. If cleanliness matters, there are more occasions to use soap. Whichever company’s soap is chosen, the whole grows.
The words “soap opera”
In the 1930s, companies making soap and household goods became sponsors of daytime radio serial dramas. That was the hour that reached the people who were at home and who chose what the household washed with.
And the programs took their name from that.
The “soap” in soap opera is soap, the kind you wash with.
Inside a phrase still in use today, the way things were sold back then remains.
There are records in Japan too
In 1890, Kao Sekken (Kao Soap) was born.
The soap available in Japan at the time, it is said, was either imported, an expensive luxury, or domestic, easy to get cheaply but of lower quality. Kao came out as something domestic and of high quality.
How it was sold is on record too. Newspaper advertisements, posters, kabuki stage curtains, steamships, thermometers in bathhouses, signboards. The roadside signs it put up along the Tokaido Main Line are said to be the first railway advertising.
The bathhouse thermometer is the one I find interesting. The name is placed in the very spot where the washing happens.
All of this is what Kao writes as its own history.
So now, we can decide for ourselves
Written this way, it may sound like a story of having been deceived.
I do not see it that way.
Soap really does remove dirt. That sellers spread the idea, and that it was useful, can both be true.
There is just one thing I want to keep in mind.
When I thought “washing the whole body with soap every day is normal,” that “normal” was not something I had decided for myself.
I had no memory of deciding, and yet it was decided.
Once I knew that, I chose to set it aside for a moment.
So now, we can decide for ourselves.
02
The outer layer of skin is not the same thickness everywhere
In the posts, I wrote that the outer layer of skin (the stratum corneum) is as thin as one or two sheets of plastic wrap. 0.01 to 0.02 millimeters.
That number has a breakdown.
In a study that measured 71 people, the values were 18.3 micrometers on the back of the forearm, 11.0 on the shoulder, and 14.9 on the buttock. A micrometer is one thousandth of a millimeter.
Within one body, there is nearly a twofold difference.
“The body is not uniform” turned out to be not only something felt, but something that can be measured.
In the posts, I also touched on how East Asian medicine has seen it: 「肺は皮毛を主る」 ── “the lungs govern the skin and body hair.” That is a completely different kind of knowledge from the measurements above.
It is not that one of them is right. I would rather hold them as separate ways of seeing, and keep them apart.
03
Tools and materials
In the posts, I set Japan’s nukabukuro (rice-bran bag) beside Korea’s Italy towel. I gave only the names, and could not write what they are.
The rice-bran bag is written about in an Edo-period book
『都風俗化粧伝』 (Miyako Fuzoku Kewaiden), published in 1813, records how it was used.
Put rice bran in a bag of silk or cotton, soak it in lukewarm water, wring it out, and wash the face and body as if stroking them.
In the public baths of Edo, rice bran was sold at the attendant’s counter. Even without bringing any, you could buy it on the spot.
The Italy towel was born in Busan in 1962
A textile mill in Busan wove cloth from viscose rayon yarn imported from Italy. The towel came out of the roughness of that cloth.
The name comes from the country where the yarn was made. So the Italy towel does not exist in Italy.
조두 (jodu) ── powder of beans and grains
I did not give this name in the posts. In Chinese characters it is written 「澡豆」.
Adzuki beans, mung beans, rice and the like are ground, the hulls removed, and the rest crushed fine and sifted. It was at the center of face-washing culture in the Joseon period, and when soap came in during the enlightenment period, it gradually disappeared.
I left the name out because the word originally comes from Chinese medical texts, and I cannot say for certain that it belongs to Korea alone. Here too, I will leave it at that.
Each of these came out of what that place had. Where rice is close at hand, rice bran. Where there is a textile mill, its yarn.
04
The oldest record of soap
In the posts, I wrote only that “there are records from ancient Mesopotamia.” I would like to write down what that record says.
At a site called Girsu in southern Iraq, a clay tablet in cuneiform was found. It is about 4,500 years old.
On it are written the amounts for mixing oil and wood ash and heating them. It is regarded as the oldest record of a chemical reaction.
The use written there, though, was the washing and dyeing of wool.
It was not necessarily for washing the body. Researchers have not identified when or by whom it was invented. What was produced is also thought to have been an impure liquid, different from the soap of today.
So this is not a story that can be told with a date. Only this far: “for thousands of years, people have been bringing fats and oils together with alkali.”
Beyond that point, we are still doing the same thing now.
05
Names and rules
In the posts, I wrote only that the three countries have different rules.
Why are they different? Writing that out changes how the shelf looks.
The United States ── call it “soap,” and it stops being a cosmetic
In the United States, there are conditions for calling something soap.
Most of it is alkali salts of fatty acids. It is labeled as soap. And the labeling speaks only of cleansing.
Alkali salts of fatty acids means what is made from fats or oils and alkali.
When all three are met, the product falls outside the category of cosmetics and comes under a different agency.
And while cosmetics are required to list their ingredients, soap sits outside that.
There is one more thing. The moment the label states an effect other than washing, such as “moisturizes” or “reduces odor,” it becomes a cosmetic. Once it is a cosmetic, the requirement to list ingredients applies.
Say nothing but washing, and the ingredients need not be written. Say something nice, and from that moment they must be.
Once I knew that, the sheer number of names on the shelf began to look a little different to me.
Japan ── full ingredient labeling came in exchange for deregulation
Japan has no rule about what a product for washing the body may be called.
Instead, the rule is on the ingredients.
In 2001, the system in which cosmetics needed approval or permission each time they were manufactured was ended, and each company became free to make them. In exchange, every ingredient used was to be written.
You may do as you like. But write all of it. That was the trade.
Korea ── the background to the change
In Korea, solid soap for washing the body came to be treated as a cosmetic from the end of 2019.
Behind it was a move to strengthen safety management of products used directly on the human body. After a one-year guidance period, the requirement has applied in full since 2021.
Side by side, they run opposite ways
The United States has conditions on the name. But meet those conditions, and the ingredient-list requirement falls away.
Japan has no rule on the name. But all the ingredients are written.
The country strict about the name is loose about the ingredient list. The country loose about the name is strict about the ingredient list.
This is not about which is right. They only draw the line in different places.
This, probably, was why I was confused across three countries.
※ In the posts I wrote that “the origin of the Japanese word shabon (シャボン) is still not settled.” To add to that: the theory that it comes from French savon has been rejected. What remains are two, Portuguese sabão and Spanish jabón. This jabón was written xabón in older Spanish. The x of that time was a sound close to “sh,” so if the word came from there, the opening sound matches as it is. The view has emerged that, in terms of sound, Spanish is the closer one.
06
What the ingredient list does not say
In the posts, I talked about where to look on the ingredient list.
Here I write the other side of it: the times when it is not written.
In Japan, medicated soap falls under quasi-drugs.
Quasi-drugs are not required to list all their ingredients. That is because the system approves their quality, effectiveness and safety one product at a time.
Even so, many of them do list them. That is because the Japan Soap and Detergent Association carries out full ingredient labeling as a voluntary industry standard.
It is not that something unwritten is being hidden; there was no duty to write it in the first place. And still it is written. That is a decision made by the one who wrote it.
Missing does not mean bad. When it is missing, you notice: “it is not written here.” That too is a discovery.
In the posts I wrote that “the label does not tell you everything.” Among the reasons it does not, there was this matter of how the system works.
QUICK VIEW
Seven ways of looking at soap
There is no need to remember all of it. Taking one home is enough.
- Where it came fromSee how long today’s “ordinary” has been around. The container (the bathroom) and the habit (how it was spread) are separate stories.
- How we washKnow that “the whole body, with soap, every day” is not a given but one way of choosing.
- SkinBefore talking about washing, look at the side being washed. What touches it is not only what we wash with.
- ToolsA difference in tools is not better or worse, but a difference in how people live. Washing well and scrubbing hard are separate things.
- SoapNot the shape but what is inside. See whether it is made from fats or oils and alkali.
- Name and contentsA name is a name tag. When the country changes, where the line is drawn changes too.
- Ingredient listWhat is doing the washing, and the first few items. There is no need to be able to read all of it.
Quick view | Two things to look for on the ingredient list
There is no need to remember all of it. Finding one is enough.
- One | What is doing the washingIs it soap-based, or a different kind of surfactant?
- Two | The first few itemsThey are listed from most to least, so those are the base.
- Clues that it is soap-based石ケン素地 (soap base) / カリ石ケン素地 (potassium soap base) / Sodium Olivate / Sodium Cocoate / Sodium Stearate / fats or oils + sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide
- An example of another cleansing ingredientSodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate. One product sometimes contains both this kind and the soap-based kind.
- When it is not writtenIn Japan, medicated soap is a quasi-drug and is not required to list all its ingredients. Missing does not mean bad.
Quick view | The rules in three countries
The country strict about the name is loose about the ingredient list. The country loose about the name is strict about the ingredient list.
United States
There are conditions for calling it soap. Meet them, and the product falls outside the category of cosmetics, and the ingredient-listing requirement does not apply either.
Japan
There is no rule on the name. Since 2001, cosmetics list all their ingredients.
Korea
Since the end of 2019, solid soap for washing the body has been treated as a cosmetic. So it lists all its ingredients.
Sources
What this issue is made from
The thickness of the outer layer of skin is from the report by Sandby-Møller et al. (Acta Derm Venereol, 2003). It measured 71 people.
The original source of 「肺は皮毛を主る」 is 『素問・痿論』.
How the rice-bran bag was used is from 『都風俗化粧伝』 (published 1813).
How the Italy towel came about is from several news reports on the textile mill in Busan.
On the cuneiform tablet found at Girsu: Open University, “The history of soapmaking,” among others.
조두 (澡豆) is from the Encyclopedia of Korean Culture (韓国民族文化大百科事典) and from papers on face-washing culture in the Joseon period.
The origin of “shabon” is from 石綿敏雄「シャボンの語源」 (National Institute for Japanese Language and Linguistics).
The rules in the three countries are from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration’s explanation of soap, the explanations by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association and the Japan Soap and Detergent Association, and an industry association’s guidance on the change of category in Korea.
How we came to wash every day is from Suellen Hoy, “Chasing Dirt: The American Pursuit of Cleanliness” (Oxford University Press), the record of activities from 1927 to 1932, the history published by the industry association itself, which still exists today, materials of the Smithsonian National Museum of American History, and the company history published by Kao.
Where something has not been confirmed, I have written that it has not been confirmed.
In closing
About this booklet
What is written here is what I know in 2026.
Next year I may be writing something different. In fact, it has already changed several times. What I use and how I wash have shifted a little each time.
I think that is fine.
As I read, there is more that I understand. And I notice what I had not understood. Being able to keep changing that way feels healthier to me.
This, probably, is what I wanted to say across the six posts.
The tricky part is not noticing that I am the one assuming.
Once I know that I do not know, the choices after that change.
So please do not take this as the right answer.
What you choose comes from your daily life, your body, and your season. It is perfectly fine for it to differ from what I choose.
First, take a look. Touch it.
From there on, you will come to know more than I do.
Receiving the wisdom those before us have spun
growing it within your own daily life
and handing it on to someone else
TAKE IT WITH YOU
To keep it at hand
The same content is also available as a booklet. Some people print it and carry it, so they can open it in front of the shelf.
All of the reading is free. The other issues are at Free reading.
NEXT
From here on, the hands do the work
Reading, there is more to see.
Making it, the hands begin to remember on their own.
All of the reading is free.
Other reading /
Skin /
Journal

